Trouble Shooting Guide

#1: Too much air in honey.

Possible Causes:

1. Honey temperature too high or too low.
2. Top RPM to high.
3. Honey very dry.

Possible Solutions:

1. Honey temperature should be 100 degrees F or slightly hotter, if your honey is drier.
2. Top centrifuge RPM should be 400 – 450 RPM.
3. Honey temperatures can be run as high as 110 degrees F for very dry honey’s.

#2: Too much honey in wax.

Possible Causes:

1. Cutter adjustment set to cut too deep.
2. Honey too cold.
3. Machine RPM too slow.

Possible Solutions:

1. Turn cutter depth adjustment to read between 3/4″ and 1″ on brass scale.
2. Honey temperature should be approximately 100 degrees F or slightly hotter if your honey is drier.
3. Check belt tensions, all belts should be quite tight.

#3: Cutting honey and wax.

Possible Causes:

1. Drum plugged with granulated honey.
2. Cutter adjustment set to cut too deep.
3. Honey too cold.
4. Machine RPM too slow.

Possible Solutions:

1. Remove drum and clean & wash thoroughly.
2. Turn cutter depth adjustment to read between 3/4″ and 1″ on brass scale.
3. Honey temperature should be approximately 100 degrees F or slightly hotter if your honey is drier.
4. Check belt tensions, all belts should be quite tight.

#4: Excessive vibration.

Possible Causes:

1. Wax wall shifted to one side.
2. Wax wall partially fell out during shut down period.
3. Cutter depth adjustment assembly loose, allowing cutter shaft to move in and out.
4. Drum was dropped.

Possible Solutions:

1. Remove and thoroughly clean & wash the drum.
2. Remove as much in and out movement from the cutter shaft as possible.
   Check all nuts and bolts for tightness.
3. Return drum to Cook & Beals, Inc. for inspection and repair.

#5: No honey comes out of machine.

Possible Cause:

Drum is plugged either with wax or granulated honey.

Possible Solution:

Remove and thoroughly clean & wash the drum.

#6: Motor belt floppy loose on one side when running.

Possible Causes:

1. Excessive drag inside the drum.
2. VSP worn out or stuck.

Possible Solutions:

1. Remove and thoroughly clean the drum. After cleaning reinstall and inspect for what is causing resistance.
2. Wash pulley with hot water or replace pulley.

#7: Dump valve won’t open.

Possibly, what is actually happening is the dump valve is too loose. When this is the case the dump valve is knocked open and then bounces back closed.

Tighten the nut slightly that holds the dump valve on. The dump valve should be quite firm to close by hand.

#8: Breaking dump valves.

Possible Causes:

1. Nut holding valve is too tight.
2. Opening dump valves at high RPM.

Possible Solutions:

1. Loosen nut – dump valves should be quite firm to close and open by hand.
2. Always open dump valves at low RPM.

#9: Machine slowing down.

Possible Causes:

1. Loose belts.
2. Variable speed pulley worn out or stuck.
3. Wax built up in pulleys under belt.

Possible Solutions:

1. Check all belt tensions, all belts should be quite tight.
2. Wash pulley with hot water or replace pulley.
3. Remove belts and clean pulley grooves.

#10: E-Drive error code recovery.

Possible Causes:

1. Incoming power fluctuation (error code “oSF”).
2. Motor overload (error code “oLF”).
3. Loose connection between drive and motor (error code “oPF”).

Possible Solutions:

1. Disconnect incoming power and allow drive to de-energize (achieved when display goes blank); double check to ensure all switches are in the start position, then reconnect incoming power. Display should then display “rdy”.
2. Disconnect incoming power and allow drive to de-energize (achieved when display goes blank); double check to ensure all switches are in the start position, then check all connections between drive and motor. Reconnect incoming power. Display should then display “rdy”.